Growing seed requires keeping soil moist for two to three weeks, and should be started in mid-April, well in advance of lawn watering restrictions.

Most soil in our region is slightly acidic as a result of steady winter and spring rains that lower the soil pH. Acidic conditions leave grass less able to absorb nutrients and recover from heat and lack of water. You can remedy this by applying lime, which adjusts the soil back to a neutral pH and replenishes minerals.

Lime should be applied in the early spring and fall, at least a month before overseeding. Local garden centres will have kits to measure the pH of your soil as well as tools to help spread lime evenly over your lawn. They’ll also offer advice on which type of lime to buy and how much to apply.

Aeration is the removal of soil cores, which relieves compaction after our heavy winter and spring rains. It opens up the soil, improving drainage and increasing the flow of water, air, and nutrients to your lawn's roots. Deeper roots are better insulated from summer heat and require less frequent watering.

Lawns should be aerated in the spring and fall. You can buy or rent manual or gas-powered aerators. After aerating, let the plugs dry for a few days before raking out or breaking up with a mower. Apply a thin layer of clean, coarse builders’ sand and rake to help fill the holes. This will help maintain aeration and good drainage, and break up compacted soil.

Overseeding gives new life to patchy lawns and adds thickness to healthy ones. Choose grass and/or micro clover that requires less water and maintenance. Low-maintenance lawns are hardier, more resilient in dry conditions, require less mowing, and are more resistant to pests and disease. Your local garden centre can provide advice on a mix of species that can stand up to a dry summer, such as a drought-resistant blend of fine fescues and perennial rye grasses, as well as techniques for applying topdressing and sowing lawn seed.

Since grass seeds require water and a minimum of three weeks to establish, plan to overseed at least a month prior to the start of regional lawn watering restrictions on May 1. You may need to occasionally overseed your lawn in the early fall to help reduce weeds.

Thatch is a layer of undecomposed grass, leaves, and other organic materials intermingled with a layer of dead and living roots and stems. A 1- to 2-centimetre-deep layer of thatch is beneficial for a lawn – it mulches the soil, reduces water loss, provides organic matter, and protects grass from compaction by foot traffic. Thatch only becomes a problem if it builds up into a thick and compacted mat that prevents water and nutrients from reaching grass roots. Many landscapers advise a low mow in fall, winter, and early spring to minimize thatch issues.

Remove thick thatch either in late spring or early fall, using a rake, a de-thatching attachment on your mower, or a de-thatching machine. You may find thatch removal is best suited to a lawn care professional.

Your lawn needs as little as 2 cm of water a week to stay healthy. That's the equivalent of one hour a week of rainfall or watering, and along with lawn preparation and maintenance, it's all the water required to maintain a strong root system. Using too much water leaches nutrients from your lawn, promotes shallow rooting, and contributes to build up of thatch. After a day of heavy rain, consider skipping watering the following week.

Water in the early morning, before 9:00 am, to comply with lawn watering restrictions and to reduce evaporation and scorching of leaves from the sun.

It's okay to let your lawn go golden brown as the summer progresses. This is a natural response to dry weather. With proper care and maintenance, your lawn will quickly green up again in the fall when heavy dews and rain return.

Mowing at ankle height (5 to 6 cm) allows most lawns to develop deep roots and dense, healthy growth that crowds out weeds. Taller grass also keeps roots shaded and better able to hold water. Aim to remove one-third of the grass length at each mowing. Cutting too much at once stresses the grass and makes the clippings too long to leave on the lawn. Shorter clippings more effectively return nutrients to the soil as they decompose.

Cut the lawn at least once a week in the spring when growth is fastest and mow less often when growth slows. Be sure your blades are sharp and mow in alternating directions to keep your grass upright, preventing excessive thatch buildup.

Keep harmful chemicals in pesticides and herbicides off your lawn and safely away from your family. Hand-pull or use simple gardening tools to remove weeds before they have a chance to flower and establish their roots. Top-dress damaged areas with sand or soil and overseed with an appropriate lawn mix before weeds can re-establish. Mowing high will keep grass thicker and able to outcompete weeds for light and nutrients.

A little maintenance every week, or as needed, is better for your lawn (and you) than an exhausting yard care marathon.

Invasive species present different challenges than typical lawn weeds. Visit Grow Green Guide for invasive species resources and advice on removing them from your yard.